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Why do I dance?

Why do I dance? Because it is a challenge. Because I will never be perfect at it. It is the unexpected that keeps drawing me back to it. The questions, the ambiguity. It is the power of the creative process. It demands so much of you, but you are so deeply intertwined that unraveling a part of yourself would cause your spirit to wither.

Window Views

Iowa City, Iowa. Apartment.
A busy street with large American cars rushing by. College students walking by at all hours.

Johnston, Iowa. Bedroom.
A dense tangle of trees that expands into a forest. A broken garden swing, a grill, and a deck with a table, chairs, and umbrella. A family seated around the table. Birds, deer, turkeys.

Leiden, Holland. Room.
A brick wall with a vine, bushes, and trees that are a haven for seagulls. A large expanse of sky, and the smell of the sea that rides the breeze.

Rome, Italy. Window in the Capitoline Museum.
Intense sun beats down on the sand colored domes of an ancient city.

New York City. Room on the upper west side.
A drab brick high rise stands four feet from the window. A pigeon sits on the air conditioner unit. Glimpses of sunlight shine on the filthy pavement below.

Back to...

Written en route to the states, July 21st

I will soon be back in the land of friendly, confident, gum-chewing, PB&J eating, pony-tailed people. Where the portions are large and the cars larger. Where the customer is number one, and there is water waiting for you on the table at a restaurant. Of patriotic, proud people who race form one appointment to the next.

To Iowa, where the heat is stifling, the corn is ripe, and the farmer's market is in peak season. Where the ice-cream shop is the place to be on a Friday night, and where there are competitions for growing the largest squash or most beautiful tomato. Where the highway extends through rolling hills and small towns. Where the people are quick to smile, and quick to offer you a hand. To spacious Midwestern homes with mailboxes lining the street. Where deer threaten cars and mosquitoes are a menace.

To home, where there are baked goods always in the kitchen, coffee brewing, and the smell of pork chops emanates from the backyard grill. Where I can step outside and go for a hike, and where owls lull you to sleep. Where the night sky is littered with stars. Where biking is out of the question, because there are no shoulders or sidewalks. Where books line the shelves, beckoning to be read.

To my family who is a treasure. To discussions at dinner, cooking together, and chats around the bonfire. To late night astronomy lessons, and hikes in the woods.

Home.

Excerpt

An excerpt from my journal, written as I flew from Holland back to the States:

"Leiden is over. I've tried to extend my stay as long as possible. I love the city, but not for the place or culture as much as the people I met who made it so special. I will miss the sunshine in my room in the mornings, waking up to the sound of seagulls, biking around, and drinking coffee on canal-side cafes..."

Reflections

Life.

Feeling the wind rush by as I bike through sleepy streets at night.

The throaty laugh of the woman who lives across the courtyard.

Waking up to the sounds of seagulls bickering outside my window.

Stifling the sadness of thoughts of leaving.

Never growing tired of the company of a best friend.

Reading in the park. Pondering as shape shifting clouds play games with your mind.

The cobbles burbling under my bike.

Wondering about life, remaining in the gray area.

A Trip to the Eternal City

I stood at the edge of the Piazza’s overlook, with a view of the entire city of Rome unfolding before me. A breeze rippled through the air, and the sun illuminated the spread of domed basilicas. I felt young, invincible, yet vulnerable and unfulfilled. Lovers melted into the benches, children skipped carelessly, and the world felt at peace. But what are words to hold a moment captive? Words cannot adequately describe my experiences in Rome, or more generally of this semester, but writing something inadequate is certainly better than writing nothing at all.
I should begin by telling about my travel buddy for my latest adventure. I have mentioned my friend Tara before, who is from Scotland and studying Law here at Leiden. We both decided that after the stress of exams we deserved a trip somewhere. We tossed around ideas for a few days, and less than a week before our departure decided on Rome. The history, culture, reputation, and beauty of the city appealed to both of us, and it has been on my wish list of places to visit for quite some time. Our flight and hostel-booking was all last minute, and despite the timing we were still able to find some good deals.
June 5th finally arrived, and Tara and I met up and walked to the train station. I managed to pack everything for a 6 day trip into my small carry-on backpack; I am getting good at this “consolidate your life” concept. Our flight was easy and short, as was catching the train from the airport to the center of the city. We made our way to our hostel, Rome City Hostel, which is a bit outside the city center in a quiet university neighborhood. It was early evening by the time we were settled, and we made our way to the metro station with the aim of finding the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain. Our first stop was a corner café that served Espresso and incredible baked goods. Nobody spoke English, and I quickly learned that “duo” is two, and “bellissimo” is beautiful. The older man who was the owner of the store struck up a conversation with us in Italian, which I could get the gist of from my understanding of Spanish, translate to English for Tara, and respond in Spanish. With the help of hand gestures and patient repetition of words, we were able to piece together a conversation. We downed our espresso standing up at the bar, said “grazie” and promised to return “domani.” We spent the evening wandering the streets of Rome. Our first stop was the Spanish Steps, which we nearly missed because of the packs of people littering them. Eager vendors shoved pinwheels, postcards, and roses in our faces. Put off by the crowds, we made our way to the Trevi Fountain, which was as equally packed with tourists flashing photos and tossing coins. We made our way to a restaurant tucked away on a quiet street, and enjoyed our first Italian meal. I had ravioli in a vodka sauce, with bread and cooked greens. The servers were friendly and the food was delicious. Properly satiated, we made our way to Piazza Colonna and then climbed the Spanish Steps for a beautiful view of the city at night.
June 6th: Our first full day in Rome started early. In an effort to beat the crowds and the heat, Tara and I got up early and were queuing for the Colosseum at 8:30. We bought a three-day “Roma Pass” that included free entry to museums and free transport, and did an audio tour of the massive stadium. The size of the structure was overwhelming. The Colosseum is the best-preserved ancient structure in Rome, and its fame is well deserved. As the heat intensified, we began to feel trapped in a stone oven, and were glad to find some shade on top of Palatine Hill nearby. I had downloaded some podcasts about the various sights in Rome to my ipod, and these helped us make sense of the crumbling ruins that sprawled before us in the Roman Forum. We walked through ancient vineyards, found old temples, and got some great views of the Colosseum from a distance. We stopped for lunch from a street vendor, sat in the shade and enjoyed gelato and watermelon.

After lunch, we went to the Capitoline Museums to see some beautiful sculpture collections. We ordered espressos at the café, which were given to us by the young barista “free, for you, because you look so nice.” We walked across the Tibur River and crossed into Trastevere. We visited the Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere, which had beautiful gold mosaics and interesting chapels. With the intention of finding a park to sit down in for part of the afternoon, we began to wander in the direction of public gardens. Our walking led to a closed botanical garden and an “off the map” walk through residential Rome. A bit fatigued by the end of our walk, we were rewarded by a pizza dinner on a patio back in Trastevere. To end the evening, we stopped at Piazza Navona for gelato and street entertainment. By the end of the day we fell into bed, having walked what felt like the entirety of Rome.

June 7th: After our exhausting first day, we decided to have a slower pace for the day. We slept in, met people in our hostel over breakfast, got out espresso at the corner café, and headed to the 2nd largest basilica in Rome, the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore. Unfortunately, we only were afforded a quick glimpse inside, as we were confronted by a security guard who informed us we were “too exposed” to enter the church. Tara and I stared in disbelief as we examined our outfits for the day- summer dresses that came to the knees, with cardigans over the shoulders. The few inches of knee showing was apparently too much for the holy environment to handle. Disgruntled, we left and began to wander to the Pantheon. The Pantheon was beautiful and impeccably preserved. The morning continued on bad footing, however, as 2 other churches we were interested in seeing were closed.

We found lunch at a random café, and, vowing to set the day right, made our way to the Villa Borghese. We found a café tucked into the trees and enjoyed iced coffees in cushioned wicker chairs. Our tired feet deserved the rest, and our minds cleared as we chatted. A nearby pond beckoned to us, and we rented a rowboat and enjoyed the scenery. We found a quiet spot in the shade and read for a bit, then made our way to Piazza Napoleone for the incredible view that started this entry. We got a sandwich from a street vendor and sat down in the middle of the Piazza to drink in the sights and sounds. After a while we made our way down the hill towards the Piazza del Popolo, and stumbled into a museum showcasing the inventions of Leonardo da Vinci. It was small and a bit disappointing. We walked in the direction of the Spanish steps and found a café that offered table service drinks and pastries. We headed back to the Piazza to watch the sunset. Back at the hostel that night, we hung out with some of the guests, who were from all parts of the world- the Dominican Republic, Quebec, Alabama, Mexico, Argentina, and Slovakia.

June 8th: After our frustrating experience getting kicked out of the basilica on Monday, we were determined to avoid the problem a second day. I loaded up my bag with black pantyhose and a sweater, and we headed to the Capuchin Crypts near the Barbarini Station. Upon arrival, however, we were not properly clothed, and apparently the bones would take offence at the visibility of my knees. We searched in vain for a toilet for me to change into my black hose, and eventually decided to repay the bones a visit later in the afternoon, when the crypt re-opened. In the meantime we headed to the complete opposite side of town to the Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano, where the Pope had resided in the past. The sculptures inside were beautiful, but there was a service of sorts going on so the ambience wasn’t ideal.

We wandered in the direction of the station, and stumbled upon a garden restaurant that had a 3-course lunch deal for 10euro. Tara and I decided to eat in proper “Italian style” by taking a few hours in the mid afternoon for lunch. Our table overlooked a Roman wall, and we enjoyed bread, a pasta dish, a meat dish, a vegetable dish, and coffee. The meal was one of the most enjoyable we had in Rome.

After enjoying our siesta, we went back to the Capuchin Crypts, this time properly attired, and marveled at the creepy display of bones. Femurs hung from the ceiling to create a chandelier, hip bones were fanned out in a symmetrical design, and mummies clothed in monk’s robes gripped crosses, their yellow teeth and shriveled eyes warning us of death. Despite the haunting atmosphere, it was a strangely peaceful experience. A placard in the last crypt read “What you are now we used to be, what we are now you will be.” Nothing like death to set you on a positive note for the day!

Our main attraction for the day was the Galleria Borghese, a gallery located in the middle of the sprawling Villa Borghese. In order to visit the museum, you must make a reservation a day before. We were given a specific time of entry, with a reservation number that was required for entry. We took a walk through the park and ended up at the gallery in time for our entrance. The gallery was beautiful, with painted frescoes and ceilings, paintings by Caravaggio and Raphael and sculptures by Bernini. After our visit, we decided to go “off the guide book” once again in search of dinner. We discovered that the best way to find authentic experiences while traveling is to get as far away from a tourist attraction as possible, ideally equally as far away from a large metro station. Our plan succeeded, as we stumbled upon a restaurant the served cheap, but incredible food. For under 10euro we enjoyed pizza, wine, and bruschetta. We were sitting next to two American guys, one of whom works in Rome making travel guides for tourists. He assured us we had come to a good place, and pointed out that everyone else in the restaurant was Italian, which is a sign that you have found authenticity.

June 9th: Our last day in Rome was reserved for visiting the Vatican. It was an all-day experience; as a pass to the museums enabled you to enter over 5 separate buildings, each with many rooms and diverse collections of art and sculpture. The museum experience reminded me of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in NYC- daunting. It would take days to truly see each painting or room, so we had to be on an express tour. We both bought the audio guides, which brought the rich rooms to life. My favorite was the Raphael Room; every wall and the ceiling was painted in his hand, and were of Bible scenes or parables and allegories of wisdom and life. The Hall of Maps was impressive as well, and the Pinoteca was by far my favorite collection.

I have to admit, I was disappointed by the Sistine Chapel. Not because the art wasn’t incredible, but because of the hoards of people, the noise, and the security guards admonishing people for using cameras and such. We managed to find a seat and gaze up at the incredible ceiling. I was overwhelmed by the vast expanse of space, with each square inch carefully painted by the hand of a genius. It was one of the most beautiful displays of human creativity I have seen.

After spending nearly four hours in the museums, we headed outside for some gelato and to go to St. Peter’s Basilica. The sun was intense, so thankfully the queue was moving quickly to get into the Basilica. I have never felt so small in a building before. The Basilica is incredible- vast, expansive, beautiful, overwhelming. Thousands of people were inside, and yet it felt open and airy. The sculptures were terrifying and huge, the altar towered over the crowds, and the dome stretched up towards the heavens for what seemed like eternity. I was touched by Michelangelo’s famous sculpture, La Pieta, which I had just enough time to see before the basilica began closing down for mass. Having had our fill of religious art for the day, Tara and I headed back to Piazza Navona for one last meal in the city we had fallen in love with. We sat on a bench and watched the busy piazza for close to an hour, talking about all the incredible experiences we had had, and trying to convince ourselves that we were alright with heading back to Leiden. We made a promise to ourselves to return to the eternal city, a promise which I hope to fulfill someday.

Deja vú

I stared into the mirror on the ceiling of the elevator. The last time I had been in this elevator had been when I said goodbye to my sister, about to leave for Amsterdam. Had it really been three months since I had left? I thought back to that first trip to London: the apprehension about my arrival in Leiden, my extreme jet-lag, being keenly aware that I was a foreigner. The elevator dinged and the doors opened. I knocked on the door of Jess's flat and waited a few moments, when suddenly three girls barraged me with hugs and screams from their hiding place around the corner. I laughed and hugged Jess, overwhelmed with surprise and elation.

My trip to London was for the purpose of seeing Jess and the two girls in her group perform for a showcase. Their showcase was on Thursday, and I arrived in London Tuesday afternoon. The day of the showcase I helped backstage with their dresses, hair, took photos and video, and acted as Family Representative. Thanks to the ash cloud, my parents were unable to make their flight. I had originally been planning on spending my time there with my parents, but had to change plans when their flight was canceled. Rather than spend three nights in a hotel room by myself, I made connections with a friend from Leiden who lives in Staines, and had the chance to be shown around London by a local. The night my parents were supposed to fly in was spent in her home, and I was comforted by tea and a hug from her mother. I realized it had been three months since I had been in a proper home, with a family kitchen and family around. The next three nights I spent with Jess and the girls in their small flat near Hyde Park. The experience reminded me of sleepovers with my giggling high school girlfriends. There was much singing and dancing around the room, laughter at all hours, and an abundance of pantyhose and hairspray.

The day before the showcase I spent by myself, while Jess and the girls were in rehearsal. I headed to the Royal Courts of Justice, and got to sneak a peek at a proceeding. There was an interesting exhibit on the traditional apparel of the judges, and I was surprised to see they still wear wigs when in court. I walked around St. Paul's cathedral and the Globe Theater, then spent a while in the National Gallery looking at paintings by Vermeer, Monet, van Gogh, and Seurat. I called my mom from the Tower of London to wish her a Happy Birthday, and headed back to see the ladies for the evening.

The following day was the showcase. I was able to connect my parents to the show via skype. The nervous, giddy excitement of the girls rubbed off on me, and by the end of the day we were all still running on adrenaline. The following morning the girls took me shopping along Oxford Street, where my outfit changed from drab to fab. I found great deals on sunglasses, a headband, sandals, a tanktop, and other summery items. Jess and I went to the Wallace Collection after lunch, and I explained some of the history behind Dutch art in the golden age. In the evening we found a proper English pub and stumbled upon a comedy night in the upstairs part.

Jess came back to Leiden with me, where she got to experience Dutch life: bicycling to the beach, picnics in parks with tulips in bloom, eating stroopwafel and other Dutch baked goods, and climbing to the top of a windmill. I introduced her to my friends, and we stayed up late most nights talking and laughing.

Lists

The places I've been since the last update:
London, Brussels, Prague, Rotterdam.

Visits from: my sister, followed by my brother.

The hours I've spent preparing for exams:
I'd rather not calculate.

The amount of time left before I leave Europe:
Not enough.

Holland in Bloom

It is spring here, and possibly one of the most beautiful places to be in springtime. Tulips are in bloom, but on a grander scale than anything I've seen before: stretches of land the size of what us Iowans recognize as soybean or corn fields that are in bloom with rows of multicolored tulips. When the sun is out, the inhabitants of Leiden emerge and sit on canal boats or outside of cafes drinking beer and coffee. I was truly shocked at the number of people there were in Leiden on the first day of sun here- where have they all been hiding? I have found a few parks that have sunny spot to read in, and have been visiting Hortus Botanicus, which is Holland's oldest maintained garden, on a regular basis.

Where has the month of April gone? I realize it has been quite a long stretch without an update, but fortunately I have been keeping a journal of what I have been up to. This will have to be the express version (I find I keep saying that, and never expand on the details... maybe I will include the fun details)

When I left off on April 10th, I promised to mention my trip to Utrecht, and an Easter celebration among other things. On Tuesday, April 6th, two of my friends and I went to Utrecht for the day. I had to write a city report for my Dutch culture class, and part of the paper included visiting the city and talking to locals. Utrecht is the only place in the Netherlands with "wharf" canals, or canals on two levels. At water level is a surface that can fit several tables, and in order to be at street level one must climb up stairs. Difficult to describe- I will include a photo. We visited the Speelklok Museum, a museum devoted to automatic instruments, and enjoyed listening to polka music and sang street organ songs in Dutch (or attempted to at least).

For Easter weekend, I had a potluck with some of my friends. I made deviled eggs, but they suffered some collateral damage from my bike ride over the canals. I didn't realize deviled eggs were so American; very few of my friends had heard of them. I went to an evensong service at the Hooglandse Kerk in central Leiden. There has been a place of worship there since the 14th century, and the church is spacious and lofty. The music was beautiful, but I have to admit I didn't pay close attention to the message, as it was in Dutch.

I have started my Dutch language classes! Monday and Wednesday nights from 7:15-10:00. The class is offered separately from university classes, and there are more adults than students in it. I am by far the youngest, and have been living in Holland the shortest amount of time. I enjoy the atmosphere, as everybody is focused on learning and not afraid to ask questions or make mistakes. By the second class we were having conversations in Dutch! I know that Dutch isn't the most useful language to know, but I figure that it is never bad to learn a new language. If anything, I will finally be able to read the directions on my food packages and understand the traffic signs.

On April 17th, (Saturday), I took a bike ride to the beach! It was 20k round-trip (around 12 miles). I went with some of my friends who knew the way. We spent the afternoon laying on the beach, dipping our toes in the freezing water, and eating ice cream and fries (or chips, or frites- take your pick).

The cycle back took us through some of the countryside, where we saw Shetland ponies, sheep, tulips, greenhouses... I am excited for more bike excursions in the summer.

Adventures all Around

It has been an eventful few weeks! Where to begin?

Last Sunday (March 28th) I visited the Gemeentsmuseum in the Hague with my friend Tara. There was a special exhibit on Der Blaue Reiter, a group of expressionist painters including Kandinsky. I loved the movement and color of Kandinsky's works, and was disappointed that they didn't have a collection of posters in the shop for me to flip through. Abstract art can sometimes make one feel confused, but the beauty of Kandinsky's work is that you feel something- even if not definable- while you look at the work. The fact that there is feeling is testament to the fact that the painting is communicating.

The following Monday I had my first class for International Humanitarian Law, or the law of armed conflicts. We are going to be studying the Geneva conventions and Hague conventions, and the implications of treaty law in the international realm. The class was very interactive, with the professor frequently asking questions of the students. The subject matter is fascinating, and it looks like it will be a great class.

On Tuesday afternoon I had a chance to visit the Peace Palace in Den Haag. The palace is the home to the International Court of Justice and the Permanent Court of Arbitration. It is not open to the public, so the only chance to visit is for a pre-arranged lecture. The lecture itself was terribly dry, and all of the students I went with were fighting to stay awake. Needless to say none of us left the lecture excited about becoming arbitrators. Nonetheless, I was glad to have had the chance to visit such an important building. Some friends and I had dinner out in the Hague, and I later met up with a friend from home/dancer in NYC who was visiting the Netherlands for the week. We caught up over dinner and lost track of the time, only leaving when the restaurant was closing.

Wednesday was my friend Alisha's last day in Leiden, as she went back home upon finishing her classes for the semester. We spent the day perusing the market and walking around Leiden. My friend Anna and I cooked her a dinner, and later that night we celebrated our friend Jill's birthday with brownies and ice cream. Alisha left the following morning for London; we were all sad to see her go. The transience-ness (not a word, but it works) of our stay here started to sink in a bit.

My friend from Iowa, Jessica, who I had met in the Hague on Tuesday came to Leiden on Friday afternoon. We walked around and I did Leiden as a "tourist", reading the signs outside buildings, reveling in the small pleasures of seeing windmills and canals as though for the first time. That evening we saw a show by Netherlands Dance Theater II, with work by Leon Lightfoot and Alexander Ekman. The dancers were incredible, and the show overall was great. It was great to share the experience with a fellow dancer. We picked apart the choreography, laughed about the ironies within the pieces, and could appreciate the work that went into the performance. We laughed and talked our way back to Leiden. The next morning we went to the market, got stroopwafel fresh from the iron, and enjoyed coffee by a canal before she left to continue her adventures in Berlin.

I will have to finish with the last week's events at another time! They include a trip to Utrecht, an Easter celebration, catching some live music in a bar as a fundraiser for Haiti, eating Dutch pancakes made by some of my Dutch friends, teaching ballet and yoga, and taking a ballet class in Amsterdam!

The Excitement of... Exams!

You know it has been a long day at the library when you leave at night and can't remember where you parked your bike. You know you are in Holland when there are enough bikes in front of the library that losing your bike doesn't allude to stupidity. I have been immensely boring this week, blog-wise, and am afraid to calculate up the hours I spent studying for my two final exams.

The good news is, they are done! Each exam was three hours, and count as either 90 or 100% of my grades for the classes. I am one of few people whose grades are transferring to my home institution; most people are just aiming to get a 55% in order to pass. I didn't want to take my chances and made sure I was as prepared as possible going into the exams. As of yesterday afternoon, I am officially done with Law and Governance in Developing Countries and Law of the European Union. I will start International Humanitarian Law on Monday.

I did manage to do some fun things besides study. Sunday the weather was absolutely gorgeous, so I went on a bike ride and discovered a park with an aviary and crocuses beginning to peak through the ground. My study-buddy and I went out to a cafe Friday night and got Dutch frites and Saturday night I met up at a local pub with some friends for a bit.

Last night I taught ballet and yoga again. The classes are going really well. I have around 13 consistent students in the ballet class. I have ended up teaching a fusion class, blending ballet and modern elements while playing popular or contemporary music. I asked the girls a few weeks ago what they liked about the class or what they wanted to change, and they mentioned that incorporating the modern elements was something they liked and wanted more of. Last week we started doing collaborative choreography. I randomly chose a few of the girls to make up their own move and we pieced them together to make a phrase. Last night we built on it, and have almost a minute of choreography that is all their own. It is great to see them invested in the movement, and overcome their fear of making up a "weird" move. I'm really enjoying teaching my yoga classes. I've developed a good structure for the class that keeps the energy moving and incorporates strengthening as well as balance and stretch.

Spring is upon us! Yesterday it got up to 64! I spent the afternoon after my exam in a park, reading and chatting with a friend. I'm hoping the weather will continue to be as beautiful this weekend, as there was talk of biking to the beach.

Studies Abroad

The name of the game this week has been study- I have two finals coming up on Monday and Thursday. Or, if you are from the UK this begins "revision" week for "exams". I have had the chance to get to know the main library quite well; I regularly stake out a spot and hold down the fort for several hours each day. I am enjoying my subjects, which makes the studying bearable. I also have a good friend in one of my classes, and we meet up in the library and take coffee breaks together. Leiden is a bit of a sleepy town- this is the weekend before exams, and literally every establishment in town with tables, lights, and the possibility of internet was closed by 6pm last night. No cafes, no student centers, no libraries, nothing was open. Granted it WAS Saturday night, and most students take the chance to go out. Nonetheless, at 6pm there were 6 Law School students standing outside of the recently closed student center, all with piles of books in hand, wondering where to go to study (cram?) for next week's exams.

A short list of some of the things I have been learning about: Constitutional reform in Afghanistan, harmonizing measures of the EU, land tenure policy in Tanzania, Sharia in national law, the jurisdiction of the EU, the internal market, corrupt judiciaries, socio-legal research methods, the rights of third-party-nationals in EU member states (hey, that's me!), the legalization of informal land holdings in developing countries, Indonesian religious courts... and the list goes on!

Quick thoughts: This week, I rode my bike without gloves (weather got into the 50's), was able to give the temp in Celsius and have it mean something (10!), ran out of my last American toiletry product (toothpaste), and replaced it with a Dutch one, and rode my bike with no hands and wasn't freaked out by it! Signs of assimilation?

A Weekend in Antwerp

The following photos are from my weekend trip to Antwerp, Belgium. I unfortunately have to hit the books, as I have exams coming up, but promise to give a full account soon.

In short, I had a chance to: eat eat eat. (Belgian waffles, frites, pralines, de Konnick bier) Hit up a few museums~ Het Rubenshuis which featured the work of Baroque painter Peter Rubens (Famous for his painting "The Ascension". Also known for having pupils and colleagues assist with his paintings.) Also visited a museum of contemporary art, which was quite a different experience from my morning of Baroque art. Visited a few gorgeous cathedrals, and walked around an old fortress. There was an outdoor market on Saturday, and my friends and I were lucky enough to find a bar with some live music Friday night.

Ironically, I spent more on using toilet facilities (40cents a go!) than on museum entrance (1euro for people under 26!)

Photos from Antwerp

(1)Pralines (2)St. Pauluskerk (3)Het Steen (4)at a bar with some live music (5) Rubenshuis Museum (6) Violinist in front of Onze-Lieve-Vrouwe Kathedral (7) Bell tower of OLV (8) Groen Plaats (9) Waffles (10) Central Station

Escher, Eating, y Estudios

This week was marked by a noticeable increase in my amount of studying and class-related assignments. I have finals for two of my law classes coming up the end of March, and the impending exams mean that I am cracking open the books more often. I have been working on a group assignment for my Law and Governance in Developing Countries class. The assignment is to interview a legal reform project manager and discuss the challenges that are present in their work. On Tuesday my friend Alisha and I went to the Hague to interview a woman who works for the Center for International Legal Cooperation. She focuses in Africa, and recently returned from Rwanda and Uganda. The interview was fascinating and quite informative. We have ample information for our presentation and paper.

Before the interview on Tuesday, two of my friends and I spent the afternoon in the Hague. We visited the M.C. Escher museum, which is the best museum I have visited. Escher was active from 1920 until the 60's, and is famous for his tessellations and lithographs. The exhibit showcased all his famous work, and was housed in a building that was formerly the Queen's winter palace. The building itself was a work of art; in each room there was a different chandelier and a description of what the room used to function as.
After the interview, my friends and I went out for dinner. It was a treat to eat out, as we often cook together. Wednesday night, for instance, we cooked a Mexican dinner. I tried my hand at making guacamole, and was surprisingly successful. Saturday night my friends Maria and Giusy hosted an Italian dinner. Both are from Naples, and took pride in their bruschetti and spaghetti carbonara. It was delicious. Friday night some friends and I went to a party hosted by friends who are from the island of Curacao. The island is near Aruba, and is part of the Netherlands Antilles. Citizens of Curacao also have Dutch citizenship, so students seeking an education almost always come to the Netherlands to study. There is a strong community in Leiden, and we had a great time meeting and hanging out with them.
This morning (Sunday) I ventured to the Hague once again to take a ballet class. I went to Balletschool Mabel Alter, which offers open professional classes on Sunday. It was my first time at this particular studio, and I plan to return. The studio is quite small, and the class was intimate. I spent a while after the class talking to the owner of the studio, who offered me inside tips about the dance scene in the Netherlands. The studio is near the Paleis Noordeine, which is the current working palace for Queen Beatrix. I spent some time walking around the park behind the palace, and stopped by a coffee shop to study before heading back.

Adventures in Amsterdam

Amsterdam(ed!): A term to describe what occurs when one exhausts the city of what it has to offer, and reaches exhaustion themselves.

I can confidently say that I was successful in this venture yesterday. I left Leiden at 9:00 am and was gone until an hour that would make my mother cringe. The day went remarkably smoothly, thanks in part to planning ahead and having visited before.

My first stop was a yoga class offered by a dancer I had met at a previous workshop. The studio was in the West end, and I decided to take my bike on the train in order to bike over. I arrived in time for the 11:00am class and spent the next hour and a half enjoying an incredible yoga class. I had originally planned on taking a dance class as well, but the studio where I was hoping to take doesn't offer contemporary classes on Saturdays. I enjoyed coffee at the cafe in the yoga studio and chatted with a few dancers/pilates/yoga instructors about life in the city. The yoga instructor is from California, and filled me in on the difficulties of gaining Dutch residency as a free-lance artist. We then took a short bike tour of the city and ended up at the FOAM museum, which showcases photography exhibits. There was an exhibit of a Russian avant-garde photographer, as well as a Dutch photographer who captured images of American counter-culture in the 1990's. I was able to get in free with my museum card, which was a plus.

Later in the afternoon I met up with a group from Leiden who were touring the Heineken Experience. I was able to get in on their group discount and spent a few hours touring the brewery. It showed the full process of making the beer, and we got to peer into the huge vats used in the brewing process. Like any good commercial experience, by the end of the tour a cold glass of beer was greatly appreciated and we all walked away feeling that Heineken is worth our money. Ah, marketing. I stayed with the group for dinner at a pizzaria in Rembrandtsplein.
The group split into smaller groups, and I had the chance to go back to central station to change into my 3rd outfit of the day (Yoga class, out and about, and going out). I got a locker, stored my bike, and changed into a dress for the rest of the evening. One of my friends from my floor turned 21 yesterday, and we all met up at a pub before heading out to a club in Rembrandtsplein. It was great to get to experience the night life of one of the most reputable cities in the world. There were several other Leiden students at the same club, which made the night even more fun. We all made it back to our beds at a late hour, exhausted but happy.

A Trip to the Countryside

Last weekend was spent exploring some of the Dutch countryside with a group of international students. On Friday afternoon 60 of us piled into a charter bus and drove for an hour and a half to the small town of Helvoirt, in Southern Holland. We had a cabin rented out for the weekend, and had been split into teams in order to compete against each other in various games and relays. Upon arrival two of my friends and I took a short walk through the woods near the cabin. The landscape is extremely flat, wet, and marshy. Friday night we played games, ate dinner, and dressed up in ridiculous costumes for an 80's aerobics class theme party. Saturday morning we had the chance to visit a dairy farm that was a 30 minute walk from the cabin. We were greeted with fresh appeltart and coffee. The farmer took us on a tour of the farm and showed how the milking equipment worked. The average dairy cow produces 23 liters of milk each day! After the tour we got to sample fresh milk from the morning. We spent the afternoon enjoying being outside, and returned in the evening to the farm to see the actual milking take place. There was also an hour-old calf that we got to meet and name as well. Sunday morning some of us went on a two-hour hike to see sand dunes, which the area is known for. After lunch and final games (my team failed miserably overall, but we had a fantastic time nonetheless), we loaded up the bus and headed back to rainy Leiden.

This week has been slow for me, as my two law classes didn't meet. (The Dutch apparently take self-proclaimed holidays on occasion.) I took the chance to ride around Leiden, visited a museum, did some studying, and enjoyed cooking meals with my friends from my residence hall. Wednesday night was an international cooking night, and each person brought a traditional dish from his/her home country. I wanted to make a corn casserole, but due to a lack of oven and casserole dish, resorted to a fresh corn salad with cilantro, tomatoes, and cucumber. It went over quite well. Thursday night I taught ballet and yoga at the sports center. This is my third week of teaching, and I am enjoying it greatly.

The Dutch Quarter

The Dutch are a highly efficient sort of people. Meetings begin promptly, and the bureaucratic system is highly organized (although not necessarily expedient). There is one exception to this rule: The Dutch Quarter. This was thankfully explained to me prior to my classes starting, but it still caused me some uncertainty. If a class is listed as beginning at 11:00, it will begin promptly at 11:15. This is the case for every class I am in. Unlike American systems, where the listed time is what time the lecturer begins teaching, the listed time for Dutch classes is what time most students get to the building, buy a coffee, and socialize outside of the classroom. There is always a fifteen minute break in the middle of class, at which point the students go buy another coffee, have a cigarette, or chat with the professor.

I have found this system to be perfectly suitable to learning. I am taking three classes this "block" (two of which will end the end of March, one which continues until May). Each class meets for two-hour increments of time, usually twice a week. A two hour class may seem unbearable to an American student, for whom breaks are seldom and leaving the class is disruptive. However, the Dutch break a two hour class into two increments of 45 minutes each, beginning promptly at a quarter after, breaking on the hour, and resuming for exactly 45 minutes. Just as my focus beings to wane, the lecturer glances at his or her watch, and steps out for a coffee.

Speaking of coffee, the Dutch have a fantastic system set up: there are multiple vending machines in each building that sell cups of coffee, tea, or hot chocolate for 40 cents each. You specify how much sugar, milk, or espresso you want, put some coins in, and a small cup pops down and fills up with your drink of choice. 40 cents seems like a laughable amount of money to spend on something that gets you through the rest of your lecture, but I am sure the brilliant entrepreneurs who marketed the machines to the university are laughing at the nearly empty pockets of the students who have become addicted to the drinks.

I am loving the course material so far. I am taking two classes at the Faculty of Law this block: Law and Governance in Developing Countries, and Law of the European Union. These classes end in March at which point I will take International Humanitarian Law. The law classes are designed with international students in mind and are taught in English. The classes are a mix of Dutch undergraduate students, (most in their final year), EU Exchange students, and American law school students. The EU and Dutch students are all able to study law in their undergraduate course work, and the material is thus a supplement to their legal studies. The American law school students are all older than me and slightly intimidating, as they come with at least 1 year of experience in law school.

The first week of classes, as I got to know people, I realized that I am one of the only students in my classes who does not study law full-time at my home university. Ironically, American institutions make undergraduates receive a B.A. in something other than law, even if they want to become legal experts or lawyers. My EU friends are always surprised by how much schooling is required to become a lawyer in the U.S.
"So, you basically study random stuff for four years, then study law for 3?" I nod. "But I'm graduating after four years with more law experience than you will have after 7 years of schooling." I nod my head and laugh. I was reminded by a Dutch student, however, that despite the required 7 years, American lawyers earn more than European lawyers.

I feel as though I have unintentionally (but gladly) cheated the system. I am studying law at an internationally recognized institution for a semester before returning to the U.S. to continue my studies in International Relations. I hope to use the experience I am gaining here to apply to classes offered in the law school that count towards my IR B.A.

My course work covers a broad range of topics. Law and Governance is primarily comparative, and we analyze how developing countries implement legal reform. We discuss case studies on Indonesia, Africa, the Middle East and the former Soviet Union among other places, and analyze case law and constitution making. We are studying the impact of colonialism as well as the importance of incorporating customary law into formal legal systems. The professor has developed legal projects in a variety of countries, including Egypt and Indonesia, and works for a research institute that studies governance issues.

My basic course in EU law is surprisingly fascinating. Sure, the text and material can seem dry, but it is all new to me. We are learning about the history and development of the Union, as well as the functions of the various parts. To make things confusing, one textbook includes the new Lisbon Reform Treaty, passed in December 2009, and another does not. We spend class time clarifying the changes and looking up the articles of the treaties to determine how cases would be handled.

The third class I am in is Culture and Society of the Netherlands. The professor is quite engaging, and the class gives an overview of the history, culture, language, and political structure of the Netherlands. I am learning all sorts of tidbits of information that I will pass on at a later date.

Off to teach ballet and yoga!

Festive Fun in Europe

I don't have a chance to give this entry the full justice it deserves, but I would like to give a pared-down version that I can expand upon in the future.

Thursday: My first time teaching at the Sports Center. I taught a ballet class of 18 dancers of all levels. I then taught a yoga class for a much smaller group. I greatly enjoyed it and am looking forward to next week.

Friday: Chinese New Year Festival, hosted by my friends who live next to me. Our common room was transformed into a party room, with red decorations everywhere. 40+ people ended up coming, and we spent the evening making dumplings, exchanging gifts, and dancing.

Saturday: Market day, as well as coffee and lunch with friends. In the evening, some friends and I went to a traditional Dutch pancake house where the pancakes were the size of a pizza. I then saw the company, "Gotra Ballet" perform at the LAKtheater, which is a few blocks from my residence hall. The show was great and the choreography amusing and stimulating.

Sunday: Carnival in Den Bosch! Everyone donned a costume and we took a train trip to the eastern part of Holland for a massive celebration. We arrived in time to dance in the parade and see the unveiling of the carnival statue.

Introducing Penelope

The newest addition to my life is Penelope, my white bicycle. The name came to me as I was walking to the bike store where I picked her up. I thought to myself, "Whatever bicycle I end up getting, it needs to be a Penelope." When I ended up at Duwosa, a narrow store in an alleyway off of the Beestenmarkt, I could tell I would find her. There were more bikes than moving space, and the kind Dutch man showed me the one second-hand bike he had for sale. I was originally hoping for a quaint old-fashioned style bicycle that most Dutch use, but I was willing to buy the racer-style bike because it was only 65 euro with everything included. The man at the store showed me how to work the lock and light (which I am still having trouble with), and I paid and rode it out.

If I haven't stressed this enough, I must now: Bikes are everywhere here. I see more bicycles in a day than I do cars. There are parking lots for bicycles, but few parking spaces for cars. The roads are designed with bikers in mind, and the drivers are used to yielding for them. My fascination with the prolific bikes has waned slightly (a result of adjustment, I suppose), but I am still amazed at all the varieties of bike-riding I have witnessed:

Traditional: The rider is sitting upright and peddling unhurriedly, with saddlebag over torso or in a basket
Distinguished Professor: The rider holds his briefcase behind him with one hand as it rests on the wire rack above the back wheel. The rider only steers with one hand.
Soccer-er-"Voetbol" Mom: The equivalent of a mini-van driver, the rider has a child seat directly in front of her, and a small seat on the wire rack above the back tire (don't have a better word for this). There is a basket in the front with groceries, as well as two saddlebags straddling the back tire with diaper bag, etc.
Gabbers: Two riders of any age ride exactly next to each other, with only a foot distance between the two. They carry on a complete conversation for the entirety of their commute.
Phone Junkies: The Dutch version of the distracted driver: the rider is texting with one or both hands or talking on their cell phone. Remarkably, capable of steering and navigating traffic
School-Girls: A small radio plays pop music, one girl is texting on her phone, and the other two are chatting and laughing.
The Romantic Couple: The woman sits "side-saddle" on the back rack of the bike, with one arm wrapped around the waist of the rider. Their head is usually inclined towards the rider, or they are engaged in conversation
The Functional Couple: See "The Romantic Couple" for basic positioning, but the back rider is clearly only participating as a faster means of transportation.
The Mentor: Two riders, one adult and one child. The bikes are directly next to each other, with the adult's hand on the shoulders of the child to direct and steer the child.
The Foreigner: Both hands grip the handlebars with white knuckles and the rider is overly conscious of signs, street names, and other bikers. There is a wild-eyed look in their eye. They tend to yield to pedestrians, who are generally confused by this nontraditional gesture. They can be most easily spotted by their extremely ungraceful dismounts and mounts onto the bike. They also tend to fiddle with their locks at least 3 times longer than the average Dutch person. Once securing their lock, they double check to ensure it is secure, and make a note of where they parked their bike.

Guess where I belong? Who knows, I'm starting to get the hang of it all. Maybe by the end I will be able to pass myself off as something other than the foreigner. Until then, Penelope and I will continue to work on our relationship. (Not to sicken you with a pun, but a friend pointed out that the full name could be Penelope Cruise. Get it? Yeah, sorry.)
(Penelope outside of my Residence Hall)

A Day in Den Haag

Vermeer, Rembrandt, a master class taught by a dancer with Netherlands Dance Theater, meeting dancers from around the world, and an incredible performance by NDT: what else could I ask for in a day?

Yesterday I biked to Leiden Central Station (I promise to do a bike post soon), took a 10 minute train ride to Den Haag, and spent the day exploring what the city has to offer. I went by myself because I was taking a dance class in the middle of the day that would complicate the life of whatever travel buddy I would have been with. My first stop was the Binnenhof, which housed the Dutch parliament from 1446, and was long the center of Dutch politics. It was a foggy day, so the pictures aren't too clear.




After walking around the courtyard for a bit I headed to Mauritshuis, an art museum that includes the work of Vermeer, Rembrandt, Jan Steen and Frans Hals. Vermeer is one of my favorite painters, and his work "The Girl With the Pearl Earring" is one of my favorite paintings. Needless to say, I enjoyed myself greatly. The museum is intimate and lavishly furnished: the walls are papered in rich colors, and the paintings hang in decadent frames. It is a very approachable museum, unlike the vast Metropolitan Museum of Art or other such places. The museum is next to the Binnenhof buildings, and looks as though it was built on the water (on the left of the photo)


I walked around the lake near the Binnenhof for a while and wandered into the Haag Historish Museum. Unfortunately very little was in English, but I was able to get in free because I have a museum card (my new favorite thing). There were paintings of Den Haag through the years, including many of the Binnenhof and Mauritshuis.

My primary reason for going to the Hague was to participate in an "Open Studio" session offered by Netherlands Dance Theater. These are offered once every few months in conjunction with performances by the company. There was somewhat of a selection process, as the class is only for professional-level dancers. I had to confirm that I was of an advanced enough level via an email correspondence with one of the education directors. I had no idea what to expect, and was excited and a little nervous. After killing some time in a coffeeshop, I arrived at the stage door entrance to the Lucent Danstheater around 4:30 to sign in and pay for the class.

As soon as I walked into the dressing room to get ready for the class, I felt at home. So many things have been different from what I am used to here: opening doors, boarding a train, flushing a toilet, using electronic keys, using foreign money, having to continually apologize for not speaking Dutch, not understanding a menu, not knowing the traffic rules, and continually consulting maps. It was therefore an incredible feeling to be somewhere and feel totally and completely comfortable. As we all warmed up in the studio, I struck up several conversations with other dancers: one was an American my age who just moved to Berlin to pursue the dance scene there, another was from California but had lived in Amsterdam for several years teaching yoga and taking classes; there were some students from a conservatory in Tilburg, and a group of girls from the Royal Ballet School in Antwerp, Belgium.

The class was taught by Sarah Reynolds, a dancer with Netherlands Dance Theater. We started with a basic modern warm-up and eventually did some improvisatory movement to continue the warm up and break through familiarity barriers. We then spent the remaining hour learning an excerpt from Jirí Kylián's "Psalmensymfonie". The piece was choreographed in Kylián's early years, and was therefore more classical than some of his more experimental contemporary work. It was incredible to get an inside view of the choreography from a dancer who had worked with Kylián. I am sore literally everywhere today, but it was totally worth it.

After the class, I wandered over to a quick-food place to grab a bite before the performance. It turned out that the four girls from the Royal Ballet School in Antwerp had had the same idea for dinner, as they were there. I joined them and got to know them a little bit. They were younger, all around 16 or 17, but had been living on their own for a while. (One of the girls had her own apartment at 16 in order to train at the school!) They were staying at a hostel that night after the show, and had been in the Hague doing shopping during the day. For some reason I had a hard time envisioning my mom allowing me to do the same when I was 16. We all headed over to the theater together, and discovered that our seats were near each other. I didn't buy my ticket until two nights before the show, and therefore got (literally!) the worst seat in the house: row X, seat 1. The theater was much more intimate than I expected, and my seat ended up offering a great view of the performance. In between pieces my new Belgian friends and I met up in the lobby to sigh over the beauty of the dancers and the excellent choreography. By the end of the night the girls and I exchanged names for Facebook and took pictures. They told me to tell them when I come to Antwerp and they would let me stay with them, and take me around the city. I plan to do just that, especially after they offered me some of their amazing Belgian chocolates! After the performance we said goodbye, as I had a train to catch.


As I made my way back to my room that night, I kept marveling about the near magic of the night. I have been obsessed with NDT for years, ever since I saw their pieces on the Arts Channel. It has been one of my dreams to simply learn some of Kylián's choreography, as he is a choreographic genius and one of the major names in the dance world. Beyond that, the opportunity to befriend people from all over the world, as well as connect with them through dancing, is an uplifting experience. Despite waking up this morning and feeling every muscle in my body ache, I am still riding the high from last night.

Navigating my way to Den Haag

Today was my first experience of dancing in Europe. I woke up early and walked to Leiden Central Station, bought a ticket for a train to Den Haag, and successfully navigated my way to Korzo Theater. Prior to coming here I had done research on where to take open classes in Den Haag and Amsterdam, and Korzo came up as a good option for general classes.

The studio was on the 6th floor of a building that organizes arts programs. The studio itself was small, as was the class (7 dancers), but it was nice to be in an intimate environment for my first experience. The class was taught by Carmen Rozestraten, a gorgeously tall Dutch woman who was a teacher at Lines in San Francisco for a time. It felt great to be back in class. My body is simultaneously hating me and loving me- I will be sore tomorrow but a good kind of sore. I introduced myself to the other dancers, and got some tips on where to dance in Amsterdam and Rotterdam. It will definitely take some effort on my part to travel and take class, but I know it will be worth it.

I was amazed that I was able to find the building without any trouble, and how easy the train trip was. Cities in the Netherlands are quite close to each other; only 10 minutes from Leiden to Den Haag, and about 40 minutes to Amsterdam. The only downside to taking the train is that it can be quite pricey (6 euro for a round-trip ticket to Den Haag, and upwards of 15 euro for a trip to Amsterdam). I am in the process of purchasing a frequent-use card that will give me quite a discount, but that all hinges on my bank account which is in the process of being opened.

I was struck by what a difference a week makes in learning the ropes of a city or country. My first trip on the train last week was bewildering. I didn't know how to buy tickets, when to present them, which platform to use, when to board, where to sit, how to tell which stop was which, and how to get out of the station. These may seem like elementary concepts, but the language barrier presents a unique challenge. I have mentioned that the Dutch speak English, but they speak Dutch first and all of the signs are in Dutch. I am used to buses, subways, or trams, but navigating a train system presents its own challenges. You must know where the exit is ("Uitgang" written in white on a green sign), and how to get to your platform.

Some of the best things I have learned in traveling is to be aware of your surroundings, double or triple check that you are in the place you think you are, and, more than anything, don't hesitate to ask questions. I have learned a lot simply by watching other people and reading signs. Travel is never easy, but it can become easier the more you do it. I am looking forward to visiting Den Haag on Saturday for a morning class at Korzo, then seeing some of the city before going to a workshop at Netherlands Dance Theater.

Photos from around Leiden

Hired!

The big news of the day is that I was hired as a ballet instructor at the sports complex at Leiden. The whole thing happened on a whim- I was looking at the class schedule trying to decide if I wanted to pay the membership fee when I noticed that they were looking for a ballet instructor. I emailed the contact yesterday, and had a meeting today with the director. It looks like I will teach a class once a week, and possibly teach a yoga class following that. I toured the facility and signed some papers and voila! I am an instructor. There are some perks- free membership saves me 70euro, plus access to the lounge and a small sum for teaching. Also the opportunity to meet some more people and teach what I love!

I have been doing more research into dancing here, and will hopefully take a class Thursday. I applied for an open studio course at the Netherlands Dance Theater in the Hague this weekend and was accepted. I don't know what to expect, except that it will be all professional dancers. There is another studio in the Hague that offers open classes to professionals as well, and I plan to go in a few times a week for ballet and modern classes. So far I haven't been able to take class since leaving but I am getting excited for when I will be able to.

Yesterday was my first academic class- Law and Governance in Developing Countries. There were about 50 students, of all nationalities. The class takes an interesting angle on law: rather than viewing it as a cut-and-dry issue where interpretation and application are central, it focuses on development of law in countries where a stable legal system is not in place. I bought my reader for the course, only 20euro (in contrast with the $70 textbook minimum in the U.S.), as well as for another course.

An interesting tidbit I learned about was an innovative 6-year program that Leiden University offered after 1800 to prepare students for life in Indonesia working in the local government. When the Dutch East India Trading Company collapsed, governance over Indonesia was transferred to the Dutch state. In an attempt to avoid misunderstanding, students who entered the program learned the local language, history, and culture, as well as respect for customary laws. The program wasn't perfect, of course, given the dramatic course of events that followed.

Last night some friends and I from Hugo (from hereon the name of my res hall) went to a place called Jacketz for dinner. They specialize in gourmet baked potatoes, and Monday night is student night. We indulged ourselves, then met up at Odessa's for the evening- supposedly the place where the international students meet on Monday nights.

Besides my appointment at the SportsCentrum today, I began the process of opening a bank account and bought a membership to the museums in Leiden. I spent some time at Naturalis, a museum focused on biodiversity with exhibits of animal and plant life. There are 5 other major museums in Leiden, some with art and others with gruesome anatomy displays. I hope to experience them all during my time here.

A word about the weather- I open my window in the morning and it truly sounds like a tropical rainforest. (Although the temperature difference reminds me it is not). It is extremely damp here and rains almost daily. The rain is indecisive- it never quite makes up its mind and just spits all day. Yesterday as I walked to class the weather went from brisk but sunny to hailing profusely to wet and rainy to sun again. All in about 10 minutes. It isn't unbearable though, and despite the spitting rain I still enjoy stopping along the canals to look at the funny ducks bobbing around or the large swans gliding along.

Well I'm off to cook some dinner and do some reading, with the possibility of planning some weekend trips later!

Thanks for reading. I know blogging seems impersonal but it is really the best way for me to share with all of you what is going on in my life.

A Student Abroad

Studying abroad is a multi-layered process. Even though I have arrived, I have a long list of essentials to accomplish before I am officially a resident for a semester. Today begins my first day of classes- finally! I won't bore you with the details of the difficulties of registering for classes in a foreign country, but I'll just mention that although the Dutch speak English, most of their websites are in Dutch. Registering for classes on an outdated system is made exponentially more difficult when the class you want to take through the law department is nowhere to be found- only after searching for what seems like an eternity do you discover that the class is listed under "Faculteit der Rechtsgeleerdheid". No wonder I couldn't find it.

On a different note, today my class will be in the law building (otherwise known as "Kammerlingh Onnes Gebouw") which is beautiful. I took a tour of it during my orientation, and was informed that Einstein himself had an office in the building when it was previously the physics building. The front overlooks a canal, and there are large windows in every classroom. It is a little intimidating to be taking classes with students in law school or studying for their masters. It is also a little intimidating to be studying at the oldest law faculty in the Netherlands. Law was one of the first faculties to be established when the university was founded in 1575. Day one of classes, here I come!

1st post from Leiden

This week has been a whirlwind. I am not yet to the point where I feel connected to reality, but wherever I am, I love it.

I left London on Monday afternoon; I had the chance to visit the British Library and see original copies of Jane Eyre, Persuasion, Handel's Messiah, and Beatles music. My mom and I headed to Jess's studio and got to see some recording in progress. We had a short, easy flight to Amsterdam and successfully navigated ourselves to our hotel. The dutch style door was opened via a pull rope connected to the top of the stairs, and the owner gestured for us to come up. The stairs were ridiculously steep and narrow. After hauling our suitcases up to the 3rd floor, we went out in search of food. We found an Indonesian restaurant and enjoyed the Dutch experience of "rijsttafel", or rice plates. There were about 20 different small plates with a variety of meats, tofus, and vegetables. We enjoyed Indonesian beer, which complemented the rich flavors of the meal.

The following day we headed to Leiden to register for my residence hall. I live at Hugo de Grootstraat, a spacious building that was originally a pharmaceutical laboratory built in 1895. My room is the largest room I have ever stayed in- a loft with my bed, large windows, and full furnishings. There are shared kitchen and bathrooms.

My mom and I spent the afternoon walking around the city of Leiden. We went to the supermarket, where all the products were labeled in Dutch. Thankfully I had my dictionary, and was able to look up the difference between laundry detergent "krachtig wasmiddel, kleur", and fabric softener. We ate lunch at a cafe and walked around the canals, and saw De Volk, the main windmill in Leiden. The city is like a child's fairytale book: twinkling lights along the canals late at night, bicycles everywhere, and a generally leisurely pace of life.

Wednesday my mom and I explored Amsterdam. Despite its international reputation, it has a small, familiar feel. Bicyclists yield to nobody, but cars stop for any pedestrian at a crosswalk. I was told by my Dutch friends that in the case of an accident, the cyclists are always right. I will elaborate more about bike culture later. After a typical Dutch breakfast of bread, cheese (kaas), koffie, and a boiled egg, we headed to the Anne Frank museum. It was stark, horrifying, and moving. We walked to a hidden church in the middle of the city, called the "Begijnhof," where women who have not taken vows to be a nun but have devoted their lives to God resided from the 17th century onward. We meandered through the Bloemenmarket, a floating flower market, and bought some excellent cheese. After lunch, we headed to the Rijksmuseum, which displays works by Vermeer and Rembrandt, among other works of art.

Thursday was my first day of orientation. I look back at Thursday and see a sea of faces. I walked into the law building in the morning without knowing anybody in Leiden, and by the end of the day had met so many people I could barely remember faces or names. I met students from: Australia, Turkey, Brazil, Kenya, Hungary, Bulgaria, Ukraine, Austria, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, South Africa, Scotland, Sweden, Iran, Canada, Pakistan, Ireland, Denmark... and I know I am forgetting some.

Highlights of the day would include learning about Dutch parliament from a Dutch student, discussing films with a student from Ukraine, assuring my Hungarian friends that I do indeed know where Hungary is (and them making me prove it by listing all the countries that border
it- I am glad for my silly online geography quizzes I have been doing!), telling my Italian friends that 37* F is WARM compared to where I live, learning the reason the street I live on is called "Hugo de Grootstraat", and how to pronounce it in Dutch, salsa dancing with strangers who later became friends, discussing the American criminal justice system in relation to the Dutch system (no juries, and the maximum penalty for most crimes is 7 years or so, often reduced. The rationale? Once an individual is institutionalized they can no longer contribute to society. It is better to give the minimum penalty that yields the maximum results.), and laughing with my Iranian neighbor about the irony of an American and an Iranian living next door to each other.

Today was my 20th birthday, and last night I was surrounded by people who I had only just met, but who I felt as though I had known for a long time. The international student organization had rented out a club for an introduction party, and there were hundreds of young students dancing the night away. What better way to spend a birthday than dancing in a European club?

Leiden has an outdoor market twice a week, and today was my first day to experience it. There was cheese, fresh fish, fresh bread, clothes and fabric, toys and sweets. I went with two girls from my floor, and we bought the makings for dinner tonight.